My answer to this is that if you go counterculture, this means you are going against culture. If you go against culture you challenge the culture's beliefs in one way or another. The public can be unforgiving when they are offended, and will many times choose to shop somewhere else if they have a choice when a company does something offensive to their beliefs. Stores like Walmart, Sears, and Costco's structure and business model is to appeal to the masses. So for this reason, alienating any group is not in their business's best interests. They have too much at stake.
Businesses that can afford to create a trendy counterculture image usually are smaller and can cater to a micrographic and do well with it. They can grow and create a larger business model, but it's much harder to do. Whole Foods seems to come to mind as a company who has successfully done this.